I attended this year's
Oak Street Po-Boy Festival. For those unfortunate souls who don't know what I'm talking about (probably nobody, since I think I know everybody reading this blog), take a look at the
Wikipedia entry. The festival (which seems to have dropped the "Heritage and Preservation" part of the title) has been going for five or six years now, and this is probably my fourth visit. Yeah, I know it's crowded and can be a bit of a mess, but for sampling a lot of different creative po-boys, it's hard to beat.
This year was different because, purely by tagging along to the right place at the right time, I ended up being conscripted as an official judge in the Specialty Seafood category. Ultimately, we selected the
Seither's Seafood seafood au gratin po-boy as the champion, although the Jack Dempsey's soft-shell crab remoulade was a close second. It was a cold Sunday, and there was something about the seafood au gratin that made it the perfect comfort food for the day. Also in contention were a soft-shell crab with wasabi mayo and caviar from
Chiba, a crabmeat boudin po-boy from Bayou Girls, a shrimp & crabmeat po-boy from
Ms. Linda, a smoked salmon with satsuma sandwich (not really a po-boy) from
Breads On Oak, and a godawful "crawfish enchilada po-boy" Voleo's seafood which convinced me never ever to eat anything from Voleo's seafood. And on top of that, I wasn't expecting to be a judge so I had already tried the barbecue shrimp from
Pascal's Manale (buttery, peppery, and reliably delicious), the fried-chicken-and-waffle-boy from
Palate (meh, maybe it would have been better if it was served a little warmer), and then after judging I had a really good garlic-stuffed roast beef po-boy from
Sammy's Deli.
I don't want to get all high-falutin' about po-boy theory, but I think the specialty seafood category was inherently handicapped. If you have the traditional seafood toppings of fried shrimp or fried oysters, those give you the kind of meaty structure you need to compete with the bread. A lot of the specialty seafood contenders, on the other hand, were too mushy to stand up. The soft-shell crab worked better, but because the po-boy festival portions are so small they still felt like they lacked substance. I think the seafood au gratin worked because the melted cheese added a chewy structural matrix. But on the whole, I think I'll stick to traditional seafood po-boys.